Tag Archives: lfw ss13

LFW SS14: Lucas Nascimento – Undressed

LFW-SS14-LucasNascimento-10There is a lot of buzz surrounding young Brazilian designer Lucas Nascimento – he is a designer to watch for the future and this season is his first showing as part of Topshop’s NewGen scheme, which has helped propel the careers of many LFW stars including Michael Van Der Ham and Mary Katrantzou.

Inspired by film stills of Brigitte Bardot in Jean Luc Goddard’s ‘Le Mepris’ wearing just a bath towel, his spring/summer 2014 collection took the idea of being caught in a state of undressing as a starting point. This was shown through the styling of the collection, with the straps of the slip dresses falling off the models shoulders, and the use of technical silk jacquard imitating towelling in knitted dresses and skirts.

The concept worked well on the darker pieces, particularly the black knitted wrap dresses, which came in knee and ankle length, and the bright yellow, however when the designs were showcased in a light blue they looked too much like an actual towel.

For me the stand out pieces had to be the cocoon jackets, especially the orange one, the sexy white dresses in superfine Japanese plongé leather, the tiered dresses and the paired back tailoring.

I can’t wait to see how this young designer’s career evolves.

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LFW SS13: Fyodor Golan – The Holy Mountain

Fashion Fringe is developing an impressive alumni, Corrie Nielsen provides the couture, Erdem is the floral king, and Jena.Theo are the masters of cool and wearable, and I think it is safe to say that Fyodor Golan has settled in perfectly, and each season the duo get better and better.

For spring/summer 2013, the design duo were inspired by the Blue Tattoo, a true story about a Victorian girl travelling through the desert when her and her family are attacked by Native Americans, and ‘The Holy Mountain’ by Alejandro Jodorowsky, leading to a vibrant collection filled with Aztec and Mayan elements, broken porcelain china prints, and a rich colour palette of Royal blues, dessert hues, and a pop of pink.

What stood out the most about this collection, other than the gorgeous billowing silhouettes and the theatrical vibe, had to be wearability of the designs. This was a collection with maturity, it showcased the extraordinary talent of Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman perfectly, and really put their label on the global fashion stage. I know that they are already stocked in Harvey Nichols and boutiques around the world but this feminine collection with a luxe edge will be very much in demand next season.

There were lots of highlights, but I adored everything that came in the gorgeous deep blue shade, from body-con dresses with sheer arms to peplum cocktail styles featuring lattice skirts, to skinny trousers adorned with Swarovski beaded, and then there were gowns that swept the floor – each was simply stunning.

Add the sculptural headwear created by milliner Zara Gorman and the facial jewellery designed by Yunus and Eliza and this was one show that I won’t forget in a while, I loved each look, and I hope big named stylists take note as these boys deserve to get their designs on the red carpet!!!

LFW SS13: Corrie Nielsen – Florilegium

One of my highlights season-in-season-out is Corrie Nielsen and once again the former Fashion Fringe winner impressed me with her signature couture and dramatic silhouettes. This season, taking inspiration from Kew Gardens, Corrie’s spring/summer 2013 collection felt more feminine than I had seen before from her, and the lighter colour palette was refreshing to see.

Kew Gardens can be seen throughout the sculptural and architectural collection, in the ruffles and the voluminous gowns, in the colourful dip-dyed organza and the models make-up, in the crafted petal-like peplums, in the crimped hair that symbolised flowers in the wind, and in the tranquil birdsong sounds that accompanied the models down the catwalk.

There were a lot of ooh moments, as there always is with Corrie’s shows, but my favourite pieces had to be the gown inspired by Kews’ Victorian glasshouse, simply stunning, the voluminous strapless peach gown that just looked like a flowers petals before it has opened fully, and the incredible dip-dyed wedding dress, which finished the show. In my opinion, this gown wouldn’t look out-of-place on the red carpet at Cannes or somewhere equally accustomed with the high dramatics, it would be amazing to see someone like Diane Kruger wearing this gown.

After the show I popped backstage to congratulate Corrie and asked her whether this feminine approach to her designs is the start of something new for her, and she simply replied “I’m not sure yet, it depends on my mood”, well here’s hoping that Corrie’s mood stays sunny as I really loved the delicate touches of this floral-inspired collection.