Held in the awe-inspiring backdrop of the disused Eurostar platform at Waterloo station, the ceiling of which still bearing the discarded helium balloons from the earlier Meadham Kirchhoff show. If Koma is known for that dinner/breast plate dress Cheryl Cole wore on the X Factor, his spring/summer 2012 show will go some way to eradicating this slightly unfortunate association.
Set to a thumping African beat, models stomped down the catwalk in tribal print devore body suits, accompanied by butter-soft, shredded leather pencil skirts inspired by the unusual combination of African zulu skirt and traditional Scottish kilt. The colour scheme of white and black was accented with flashes of citrus, fuchsia and ice blue in belts and on cuffs.
If this LFW has been mostly about the skirt, then Koma flew the flag for the trouser. Fluid flared shapes in white and citrus elongated the leg and looked fresh in a sea of body-con dresses and skater skirts.
Reverting to type, the latter half of the collection showed the Sci-Fi styling we recognise from his previous collections. Iridescent Perspex tubes, created in a collaboration with jewellery designer Sarah Angold, formed peplums and trimmed hems. All of which combined to create a futuristic 3-D aesthetic, fit for an intergalactic Aztec warrior woman…or TV talent show panellist.
**Thanks to my pal Ella Shippey, Freelance Fashion Assistant, for stepping in and covering my shows while I was in New York, you rock!!!**